Set on the northwestern tip of the marismas ,( salt flat lands ) EL ROCÍO is a tiny village of white cottages and a church stockade where perhaps the most famous pilgrimage-fair of the south takes place annually at Pentecost. This, the RomerIa del RocIo , is an extraordinary spectacle, with whole village communities and local "brotherhoods" from Huelva, Sevilla and even MAlaga converging on horseback and in lavishly decorated ox carts. Throughout the procession, which climaxes on the Saturday evening, there is dancing and partying, while by the time the carts arrive at El RocIo they've been joined by busloads of pilgrims. The fair commemorates the miracle of Nuestra Señora del Rocío (Our Lady of the Dew), a statue found, so it is said, on this spot and resistant to all attempts to move it elsewhere. The image, credited with all kinds of magic and fertility powers, is paraded before the faithful early on the Sunday morning.

El Roio is a nice place to stay, with wide, sandy streets, cowboy-hatted horse-riding farmers and a frontier-like feeling.

Accommodation prices, however, tend to be on the high side; do not even think about a getting a room during the romería as they not only cost over ten times normal prices, but are booked up years ahead.

The marismas and pine woods adjacent to the town are teeming with birds, and following tracks east and southeast of El Rocío, along the edge of the reserve itself, you'll see many species (up to a hundred if you're lucky).

The Festival of the Romeria del Rocio

Once again its that time of year when hundreds of thousands of Rocieros from all over Spain make their annual dusty pilgrimage to pay homage to the Virgen del Rocio in one of Andalucias biggest festivals, the Romeria del Rocio.

Although the Virgen del Rocio has been celebrated for over 800 years in 1758 it was decided that it would go ahead on the fiftieth day after Easter Sunday. There are actually two main parts, the festival of Almonte of which the Virgen del Rocio is the patron saint and the pilgrimage which starts several days earlier. The festival is a blend of catholic and local pagan beliefs.

The pilgrimage to the village of Rocio is quite a spectacular and traditional affair with hundreds of brotherhoods from surrounding villages and from all over Andalucia taking part.

Carts are beautifully and lovingly prepared in bright colours and flowers with the pilgrims dressed in traditional colourful gypsy inspired flamenco dresses and the men in their short cropped jackets ( a la Andalucian style ) and unique wide brimmed bolero hats. Some carts are even pulled along by oxen and horses although mostly these days the sturdy fours by fours are thre modern substitute and ideal for driving over the soft sandy conditions that await. The Rocieros arrive in the area and camp out in the surrounding fields and marsh land alongside the Doñaña National park.

Although the Romeria is a highly religious festival as you would expect with the Spanish it is also an time of much fun and enjoyment for all the family, and the party stops for no man. Local produce such as black foot ham ( Pata Negra ) white prawns from Sanlucar and many other excellent dishes will be eaten and all will be washed down with some the Finest wines and sherry’s the region has to offer.

The highlight of the festival for many a devotee is when the Virgen del Rocio ( a large silver shrine ) is taken our from the Church in the El Rocio in all her splendour , this is where the religious fanaticism really kicks in with thousands of devotees clamber to touch the Virgen shrine as she passes by, this can go on for several hours with many followers visibly moved by their unique experience. This custom is better understood knowing that the devoted claim her intense powers can cure disease, infertility and mental disorders.

There are no tarmac roads to speak off in El Rocio as the whole village is built on sand, vehicle parking areas have been replaced with fences to tie up the horses. If you have never visited El Rocio I would highly recommend it as it is undoubtedly one of the most unique villages in Spain.