JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA , inland towards Sevilla, is the home and heartland of sherry ( itself an English corruption of the town's Moorish name - Xerez ) and also, less known but equally important, of Spanish brandy. An elegant and prosperous town, it's a tempting place to stop, arrayed as it is round the scores of wine bodegas with plenty of sights to visit in between. Life is lived at a fairly sedate pace for most of the year here, although things liven up considerably when Jerez launches into one or other of its two big festivals - the May Horse Fair (perhaps the most snooty of the Andalucian ferias ), or the celebration of the vintage towards the end of September.

Jerez is also famous throughout Spain for a long and distinguished flamenco tradition and if you're interested in finding out more about Andalucía's great folk art then a visit to the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco , Plaza de San Juan (Mon 9am-2pm, Tues-Fri 9am-2pm & 5-7pm; free), in the atmospheric gitano quarter, the Barrio de Santiago, is a must; here you can see videos of past greats and get information on flamenco venues in the town.

The tours of the sherry and brandy processes can be interesting - almost as much as the sampling that follows - and, provided you don't arrive in August when much of the industry closes down, there are a great many firms and bodegas to choose from. The visits are conducted either in English (very much the second language of the sherry world) or a combination of English and Spanish and last for about an hour. Jerez's "big two" are Gonzalez Byass , Calle Manuel González s/n (tours: March-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm & 5-7pm, Sun 9.30am-1pm; rest of year ring the bodega for hours; book in advance on 956 357 016, English spoken, or www.gonzalezbyass.es/ ; Euros6 ) makers of the famous Tio Pepe brand and the more central, and Pedro Domecq , Calle San Ildefonso 3 ( tours: Mon-Fri 9am-1.30pm & 5-7pm; advance booking on 956 151 500 or www.domecq.es/ ; Euros3 morning visits, Euros4.50 afternoon ) producers of La Ina ; besides manufacturing sherry both bodegas are major brandy producers, too. Many of these firms were founded by British Catholic refugees, barred from careers at home by the sixteenth-century Supremacy Act, and even now they form a kind of Anglo-Andalucian tweed-wearing and polo-playing aristocracy ( on display, most conspicuously, at the Horse Fair ). The Gonzalez wine cellars - the soleras - are perhaps the oldest in Jerez and, though it's no longer used, preserve an old circular chamber designed by Eiffel (of the tower fame). If you feel you need comparisons, you can pick up a list of locations and opening times of the other bodegas from the turismo or from any travel agent in the centre when this is closed.

The most attractive of the town's buildings - including the imposing Gothic-Renaissance Catedral de San Salvador (daily 5.30-8pm and morning service, or ring 956 348 482) and the impressive eleventh-century Moorish Alcazar (daily: May-Sept 10am-8pm; Oct-April 10am-6pm; Euros1.50) next to the González bodega - are within a couple of minutes' walk of the central Plaza del Arenal. An excellent Archeological Museum (June-Aug 10am-2.30pm, closed Mon; Sept-May Tues-Fri 10am-2pm & 4-7pm, Sat & Sun 10am-2.30pm; Euros1.50) lies five minutes north of the centre in the Plaza del Mercado on the edge of the Barrio de Santiago; star exhibits include a seventh-century BC Greek military helmet, a Visigothic sarcophagus and a fine Caliphal bottle vase. Evidence of Jerez's great enthusiasm for horses can be seen at the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art , Avda. Duque de Abrantes s/n, which offers the chance to watch them performing to music (Thurs noon; March-Oct also Tues noon; tel 956 319 635; Euros12-18). training, rehearsals ( without music ) and visits to the stables take place on other weekdays between 11am and 1pm, when admission is a more affordable.

For food there are tapas bars and eating places all over the central zone; one of the best tapas venues is Juanito , Calle Pescaderia Vieja 4 ( off the east side of the central Plaza del Arenal ) and, right opposite in the same alleyway, is a decent modest-priced restaurant, Almenas , with a budget menú.

The train and bus stations are more or less next door to each other, eight blocks east of the Gonzalez byass bodega and Plaza del Arenal.

There is an excellent selection of Hotels in Jerez ranging from modernto typical andalucian and from luxurious to great value 2 and 3 star establishments. For a great value 5 star hotel then try the Hotel Jerez Occupying one of the most prestigious locations in Jerez and surrounded by neat gardens, this emblematic hotel is the perfect venue for a break in this traditional Andalusian city. Enjoy the warm Spanish sunshine with a dip in the hotel’s outdoor pool, surrounded by comfortable sun loungers. You can also choose to relax in the spa facility of the Jerez Hotel & Spa, where you will find ice cabins, swan neck springs and an attractive indoor swimming pool. In the evenings, head to the El Cartujano restaurant to enjoy traditional Mediterranean dishes made with innovative touches.

Another highlly rated hotel is the Los Jandalos Jerez and Spa , a magnificent hotel that offers a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere, ideal both for business or leisure travelers. It is beautifully decorated and offers all the modern amenities that you can expect. This hotel is situated in the best commercial area of the city and is close to some wine cellars, between la Plaza de Toros and Alvaro Domecq. Avenue. It opened in 2004, after the old cellars of Williams & Humbert were renovated. The hotel features a spa centre, fully equipped with 3 jacuzzis, showers, massage and relaxation rooms, as well as indoor parking, café, bar and a snack bar.

The Hotel Guadalete is another great value 5 star establishment. Newly renovated and well situated in a residential area of Jerez just 15 minutes from glorious beaches, this elegant hotel has a fantastic outdoor pool and sauna. Sun yourself on the poolside loungers before cooling off in the great outdoor pool. Then unwind further in the attractive, outdoor Jacuzzi. Enjoy a good book or siesta in the shade of the Guadalete's leafy gardens.

If you are looking for a real taste of Andalucia you could try the Nuevo Hotel . Located in the centre of Andalusias Jerez de la Frontera this charming hotel has been beautiful converted from a 19th-century noble home. Situated in the lovely San Miguel district, the Hotel Nuevo was once a palace in this neighbourhood. Climb up the grand staircase to your tastefully decorated bedroom. The dining room of the Hotel Nuevo is equally elegant.