During the reconquest of Andalucía, CAZORLA acted as an outpost for Christian troops, and the two castles which still dominate the town testify to its turbulent past - both were originally Moorish but later altered and restored by their Christian conquerors. Today it's the main base for visits to the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Segura y Cazorla , a vast protected area of magnificent river gorges and forests. Cazorla also hosts the fiesta de Cristo del Consuelo , with fairgrounds, fireworks and religious processions on September 16-21.
Cazorla itself is constructed around three main squares. Buses arrive in the busy, commercial Plaza de la Constitución , where there's a privately run tourist office , Quercus (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm, Sat & Sun 9am-2pm & 6-9pm; tel 953 720 115), offering Land Rover and horse-riding day trips into the park. The main c/de Muñoz connects with the second square, the Plaza de la Corredera (or del Huevo , "of the Egg", because of its shape). The seat of the administration, the ayuntamiento , is here, a fine Moorish-style palace at the far end of the plaza. Beyond, a labyrinth of narrow, twisting streets leads to Cazorla's liveliest square, the Plaza Santa María . This takes its name from the old cathedral which, damaged by floods in the seventeenth century, was later torched by Napoleonic troops. Its ruins, now preserved, and the fine open square form a natural amphitheatre for concerts and local events as well as being a popular meeting place. The square is dominated by La Yedra , an austere, reconstructed castle tower, which houses the Museo de Artes y Costumbres (Mon-Sat 9.30am-2.30pm; free), an interesting folklore museum displaying domestic utensils and furniture.
Cazorla's official turismo (April-Sept Mon-Fri 10am-2pm; tel 953 710 102) is at Paseo del Santo Cristo 17, 100m north of Plaza de la Constitución, and can provide a useful town map. There is a surprising range of accommodation in Cazorla. Pensión Taxi , travesía de San Antón 7 (tel 953 720 525; ( Euros12-18), off Plaza de la Constitución, is at the bottom end; as a resident, you can also eat for very little in their comedor . Better facilities are available at the very friendly Hotel Guadalquivir , c/Nueva 6 (tel 953 720 268; ( Euros27-36), off Plaza de la Corredera, while in the square itself, the equally friendly Hostal Betis (tel 953 720 540; ( Euros12-18) has some rooms overlooking the plaza. There is also a clutch of more upmarket places, of which the Villa Turistica de Cazorla , Ladera de San Isidro s/n (tel 953 710 100, fax 953 710 152; ( Euros60-90), is the best; it's a five-minute walk from Plaza de Santa Maria along c/Fuente de la Peña. If you have a car there are some very attractive alternatives out in the sierra, including the Hotel Sierra de Cazorla (tel 953 720 015, fax 953 720 017; ( Euros36-48), 2km outside the town, with a pool, and the Parador El Adelantado (tel 953 727 075, fax 953 727 077; ( Euros60-90), a well-designed modern building with pool in a wonderful setting 25km away in the park. Cazorla also has an efficient youth hostel , at Mauricio Martínez 2 (tel 953 710 329; under ( Euros12; open April-Oct, Christmas and Easter), reached by following c/Juan Domingo from Plaza de la Constitución. Ask at the Mesón la Cueva if you want to rent an apartment for a longer stay.
For eating and drinking there are several spit-and-sawdust bars with good tapas clustered round the Plaza Santa María, along with the rustic Mesón la Cueva , which offers authentic local food cooked on a wood-fired range - the conejo (rabbit) is recommended - though when they are overrun in high season things can tend to deteriorate. Other places where you can eat well are Mesón Don Chema , down some steps off c/Muñoz, serving platos combinados and an economical menú , or the more expensive La Sarga , Plaza del Mercado, at the bottom of the same steps, where regional dishes are prepared with flair.
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