During the reconquest of Andalucía, CAZORLA acted as an outpost for Christian troops, and the two castles which still dominate the town testify to its turbulent past - both were originally Moorish but later altered and restored by their Christian conquerors. Today it's the main base for visits to the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Segura y Cazorla , a vast protected area of magnificent river gorges and forests. Cazorla also hosts the fiesta de Cristo del Consuelo , with fairgrounds, fireworks and religious processions on September 16-21.

Cazorla itself is constructed around three main squares. Buses arrive in the busy, commercial Plaza de la Constitución , where there's a privately run tourist office , Quercus (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm, Sat & Sun 9am-2pm & 6-9pm; tel 953 720 115 ), offering Land Rover and horse-riding day trips into the park. The main Calle de Muñoz connects with the second square, the Plaza de la Corredera (or del Huevo , "of the Egg", because of its shape). The seat of the administration, the ayuntamiento , is here, a fine Moorish-style palace at the far end of the plaza. Beyond, a labyrinth of narrow, twisting streets leads to Cazorla's liveliest square, the Plaza Santa María . This takes its name from the old cathedral which, damaged by floods in the seventeenth century, was later torched by Napoleonic troops. Its ruins, now preserved, and the fine open square form a natural amphitheatre for concerts and local events as well as being a popular meeting place. The square is dominated by La Yedra , an austere, reconstructed castle tower, which houses the Museo de Artes y Costumbres (Mon-Sat 9.30am-2.30pm; free), an interesting folklore museum displaying domestic utensils and furniture.

Cazorla's official turismo (April-Sept Mon-Fri 10am-2pm; tel 953 710 102) is at Paseo del Santo Cristo 17, 100m north of Plaza de la Constitución, and can provide a useful town map. There is a surprising range of accommodation in Cazorla. The Hotel Guadalquivir is one of the most popular in the town. This traditional-style hotel is located in Cazorla, just outside the spectacular Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, in the Andalusian province of Jaén. Over 30 years old, the Hotel Guadalquivir is the perfect traditional location for your stay amongst the stunning landscape of inland Andalusia. The surrounding national park is one of the most beautiful in the country, and is also famous for its rustic cuisine.
Another popular hotel is the Parque Cazorla This good value hotel is located within the Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park. It is a charming hotel with free Wi-Fi in all areas, a bar-cafeteria and beautiful views. For a real treat the Hotel Sierra de Cazorla Spa Oleo Salud ia a true gem. This peaceful, eco-friendly hotel and thermal spa is located in the mountains of La Iruela, surrounded by the Andalusian countryside. Set in an impressive natural landscape, the Hotel Sierra de Cazorla & Spa Óleo Salud is located near the town of Cazorla and the districts of Segura and the Las Villas natural park. It is one of the first hotels in the world to use olive seed biofuels to heat its clean, warm water. Olive oil is also essential to the treatments offered in the hotel’s spa facility. Here you can enjoy oil massages, saunas and a dip in the hydrotherapy spa pool or floatarium. There is even an outdoor pool where you can enjoy the warm Andalusian sunshine.

For eating and drinking there are several spit-and-sawdust bars with good tapas clustered round the Plaza Santa María, along with the rustic Mesón la Cueva , which offers authentic local food cooked on a wood-fired range - the conejo ( rabbit ) is recommended - though when they are overrun in high season things can tend to deteriorate. Other places where you can eat well are Mesón Don Chema , down some steps off Calle Muñoz, serving platos combinados and an economical menú , or the more expensive La Sarga , Plaza del Mercado, at the bottom of the same steps, where regional dishes are prepared with flair.