CADIZ is among the oldest settlements in Spain, founded about 1100 BC by the Phoenicians and one of the country's principal ports ever since. Its greatest period, however, and the era from which the central part of town takes most of its present appearance, was the eighteenth century. Then, with the silting up of the river to Sevilla, the port enjoyed a virtual monopoly on the Spanish-American trade in gold and silver, and on its proceeds were built the cathedral - itself golden-domed (in colour at least) and almost Oriental when seen from the sea - the public halls and offices, and the smaller churches.

Inner Cadiz , built on a peninsula-island, remains much as it must have looked in those days, with its grand open squares, sailors' alleyways and high, turreted houses. Literally crumbling from the effect of the sea air on its soft limestone, it has a tremendous atmosphere - slightly seedy, definitely in decline, but still full of mystique.

The Town Unlike most other ports of its size, Cadiz seems immediately relaxed, easy-going, and not at all threatening, even at night. Perhaps this is due to its reassuring shape and compactness, the presence of the sea and the striking sea fortifications and waterside alamedas making it impossible to get lost for more than a few blocks. But it probably owes this tone as much to the town's tradition of liberalism and tolerance - one maintained all through the years of Franco's dictatorship even though this was one of the first towns to fall to his forces, and was the port through which the Nationalist armies launched their invasion. In particular, Cádiz has always accepted its substantial gay community, who are much in evidence at the city's brilliant carnaval celebrations.

Cádiz is more interesting in its general ambience - its blind alleys, cafés and backstreets - than for any particular buildings. As you wander, you'll find the Museo de Bellas Artes , at Plaza de Mina 5 (Tues 2.30-8pm, Wed-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 9.30am-2.30pm; Oct -Mar Tue-Sat closes 6pm; , just across the square from the turismo. This contains an impressive local archeological display and a quite exceptional series of saints painted by Francisco Zurbarán , brought here from the Carthusian monastery at Jerez and one of only three such sets in the country (the others are at Sevilla and Guadalupe) preserved intact, or nearly so. With their sharply defined shadows and intense, introspective air, Zurbarán's saints are at once powerful and very Spanish - even the English figures such as Hugh of Lincoln, or the Carthusian John Houghton, martyred by Henry VIII when he refused to accept him as head of the English Church. Perhaps this is not surprising, for the artist spent much of his life travelling round the Carthusian monasteries of Spain and many of his saints are in fact portraits of the monks whom he met.

Even if you don't normally go for High Baroque it's hard to resist the attraction of the huge and seriously crumbling eighteenth-century Catedral Nueva (visits, including museum: Tues-Sun 10am-1pm, plus Tue-Fri 4-7pm; ( Euros3), now undergoing a belated (and astronomically expensive) restoration. The cathedral is decorated entirely in stone, with no gold or white in sight, and in absolutely perfect proportions. In the crypt you can see the tomb of Manuel de Falla, the great gaditano composer of such Andalucía-inspired works as Nights in the Gardens of Spain and El Amor Brujo . Over on the seaward side of the mammoth complex, the "old" cathedral, Santa Cruz , is also worth a look, its interior liberally studded with coin-in-the-slot votive candles.

A Roman theatre (Tues-Sun 11am-1.30pm; free) has recently been excavated behind. To the north of the cathedral along Calle Sacramento, the Torre Tavira ( daily: June-Sept 10am-8pm; Oct-May 10am-6pm; ( Euros3 ), Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro 10, is an eighteenth-century mansion with the tallest tower in the city, from where there are great views over the rooftops to the sea beyond; it also houses an entertaining camera obscura . Lastly, there are two churches of note for the paintings they contain. Foremost of these is the chapel of the Hospital de las Mujeres ( Mon-Fri 10am-1pm ), which has a brilliant El Greco , St Francis in Ecstasy . The other, an oval, eighteenth-century chapel, Santa Cueva (Mon-Sat 10am-1pm, plus Tue-Fri 4.30-7.30pm ), on Calle Rosario, has three fine frescoes on Eucharistic themes by Goya .

Eating Out: Take-away fried fish was invented in Cadiz ( despite English claims to the contrary ) and there are numerous freidurías ( fried-fish shops ) around the town as well as stands along the beach in season; few eating experiences here can beat strolling the city streets while dipping into a cartucho (paper funnel) of pescado frito . In the bars, tortilla de camarones ( shrimp omelette ) is another superb local speciality.

A couple of freidurías worth seeking out are the Freiduría Las Flores on the square of the same name and the equally good Freiduría Sopranis , Calle Sopranis 2, just off Plaza San Juan de Dios . The Plaza de San Juan de Dios, protruding across the neck of the peninsula from the port and the first long stretch of Cadiz's naval dockyards, has several cafés and inexpensive restaurants . In the square's southwest corner, Pasaje Andaluz , with a terrace, and the nearby and diminutive El Quinto Pino , Calle San Fernando 2, are good places to try. Superior quality fare is to be had at the popular Restaurante Achuri , Calle Plocia 15 off the square's northern end ( closed Sun-Wed evenings ), serving up some excellent Basque and andaluz - inspired dishes in a pleasant setting. For fish you must also visit the tiny Plaza Tio de la Tiza , in the old fishing quarter near the beach, which has dozens of good fish places, with outdoor tables filling the surrounding streets in summer. The more upmarket El Faro , Calle San Félix 15, nearby, is one of the best fish restaurants in Andalucía - their menu is good value - with an equally outstanding tapas bar attached.

A highly rated hotel in Cadiz is the Hotel Puertatierra It is on the higher end of the market but still excellent value. The hotel is set 100 metres from Santa María del Mar Beach and within walking distance of Cadiz's old town.

On the slightly lower price range is the Hotel Del Mar It is located in the picturesuqe Puerto de Santa Maria and close to the centre of the city and the area's great beaches, the hotel's quiet, tranquil location makes it ideal for business or leisure visitors. The hotel's relaxing gardens, comfortable accommodation and good amenities mean it is ideal for a holiday, for families or as a peaceful base for conducting business. All of the well-equipped rooms are en suite and have satellite TV. The hotel has its own private garage and complimentary Wi-Fi internet access is available throughout.