ARENAS DE SAN PEDRO is a sizeable town with a somewhat prettified fifteenth-century castle and a good range of accommodation : pleasant options include the Hostería Los Galayos (tel & fax 920 371 379, losgalayos.com ; ( Euros36-48), which also has a reliable restaurant, the roomy Posada de la triste Condesa (tel 920 372 567; ( Euros36-48), and Hostal Castillo (tel 920 370 091; ( Euros18-27). If you haven't already obtained maps of Gredos, you can pick up a functional pamphlet from the turismo (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; tel 920 372 368) on c/triste Condesa, or buy more detailed sheets from the bookshop Librería Nava on the same road.

MOMBELTRÁN , 12km north (an enjoyable, mainly downhill, walk from Arenas), is an attractive alternative stop, with its fifteenth-century castle of the Dukes of Albuquerque set against a stunning mountain backdrop. The village has two hostales , the Albuquerque (tel 920 386 032; ( Euros27-36) and Marji (tel 920 386 031; ( Euros48-60), and a summer-only campsite , Prados Abiertos (tel 920 386 061), 4km south of the centre towards Arenas de San Pedro.


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