ALMERÍA is a pleasant, modern city, spread at the foot of a stark grey mountain. At the summit is a tremendous Alcazaba (daily 9am-8.30pm; Oct-Mar closes 6pm; ( Euros1.50, free for EU citizens), probably the best surviving example of Moorish military fortification, with three huge walled enclosures, in the second of which are the remains of a mosque, converted to a chapel by the Reyes Católicos. In the eleventh century, when Almería was an independent kingdom and the wealthiest, most commercially active city of Spain, this citadel contained immense gardens and palaces and some 20,000 people.

Almeria`s grandeur was reputed to rival the court of Granada but comparisons are impossible since little beyond the walls and towers remains, the last remnants of stuccowork having been sold off by the locals in the eighteenth century.

From the Alcazaba, however, you do get a good view of the coast, of Almería's cave quarter - the Barrio de la Chanca on a low hill to the left - and of the city's strange fortified Cathedral (Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Sun service hours, built in the sixteenth century at a time when the southern Mediterranean was terrorized by the raids of Barbarossa and other Turkish and North African pirate forces; its corner towers once held cannons.

Try sampling many of the cafés, tapas bars and terrazas in the streets circling the Puerta de Purchena, the focal junction of the modern town, and strolling along the main Paseo de Almería down towards the harbour, and taking day-trips out to the beaches along the coast. The city's own beach lies southeast of the centre beyond the train lines.

Almeria hides some hidden gems if you are a lover of quiet and pristine beaches, clean and warm waters. In the eastern part of the province is the Cabo de Gata natural park where construction has been kept to an absolute minimum . Warm and clear waters flow all along the shores of this natural park and is a ideal for tranquil bathing and snorkeling enthusiasts. On my last visit I must have spent half of my holiday exploring the clear shallow waters around the rocky outcrops. If this type of holiday floats your boat then head for places like Los Escullos, The Playa de los Genoveses, San Jose and Playa de Monsul. This quite beaches and towns may be slightly off the beaten track but are well worth the trip.

A popular hotel right on the beach of San Jose if the Hotel Don Ignacio Set in the charming and historic fishing village of San José, this beachfront hotel is located within the stunning Cabo de Gata-Nijar National Park. Visit the Natural Park with its unique and beautiful natural environment and magnificent beaches. You can unwind in the tranquil and spacious hotel facilities and take a dip in the refreshing swimming pool after a long day of tourist activities. The surrounding area is ideal for the practise of a variety of outdoor activities, such as trekking, scuba diving and boat tours.

If your looking for absolute tranquility and private beaches with some of the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean then the Cortijo Los Escullos is a must place to stay. The Cortijo is situated in Cabo de Gata National Park and enjoys unique views over Escullos Bay. The hotel is small and cosy and is situated only 1 km from the sea, right in the middle of nature. It offers all the modern comforts and a tranquil environment. This is a paradise for nature lovers and those who want to disconnect from everyday life and get involved in some adventure tourism.